#Ak rivet bolt cutter modification free
Now that the trunnion is free of the barrel, it’s fixed in the AK Builder drilling fixture. With the pin out, the barrel is pushed out using the hydraulic ram with the trunnion supported by the AK Builder Barrel Press fixture. The work begins with removing the partially installed barrel pin using the Forbus barrel pin tool guiding the hydraulic press’ ram. It’s part of the welded-in guide rail, and it’s usually left long and needs to be filed down to allow the bolt to pass over it. The Work Beginsįiling the ejector in the Childress AKM receiver. With the feeler gauges stacked in the gap during reassembly, they act as a stop, ensuring the barrel is seated at the same depth it was headspaced at. We checked our AK-Builder built barrel and used a set of automotive feeler gauges to record the gap between the front trunnion and the rear sight base.
#Ak rivet bolt cutter modification plus
There aren’t many showstoppers on the AKM, but plus or minus a couple thousandths of headspace can result a rifle which fires out of battery or separates the heads from cases. Even so, if there’s one thing, just one thing, that you take away from this article, it’s the importance of checking the headspace. We didn’t have to worry about fitting the gas block and sight block, or drilling/reaming the barrel pinhole. We used specialized AK gunsmithing tools from AK Builder, Toth Tools, and Robert Forbus Engineering Works in addition to a standing hydraulic press as well as some common tools, such as a drill press, rubber mallet, Dremel, and files. Unless you’re as lucky as we are, you’re not going to be able to pillage your buddy’s shop for riveting tools and alignment fixtures. You get a single shot at installing one, and the tools to work with them aren’t common, either. If you don't have a press you can make the bolt cutter riveters like in this link.The rivets in the recessed area of the AKM’s front trunnion are best reached with the Toth Tool and Engineering Rivet Jaws. I used a cheap angle grinder with a thin cut off wheel to cut and shape the bolt.īe careful not to get the bolt too hot when grinding, because that will take the temper out of the steel & you will need to get another bolt to start over. You will need to buy a 4" or 5" or longer bolt so you can cut off the threaded part It helps to keep the bolt as short as possible. Here is a sketch showing you how it fits inside the receiver, so you can squeeze the rivets. press you can make a riveter out of a 3/4" grade 8 bolt. To do the center support rivet I turn the bucking plate over & only use the #2 crushing pin to form the head.How do you do the short rivets on the trunnion? Notice the bucking plate on the bottom it has two holes for holding the rivet head, the one that you can see is used for RPKs & Yugos with bulged trunnions the chamfered edge sets next to the bulge. To do the center support rivet I turn the bucking plate over & only use the #2 crushing pin to form the head. The top spacer is open on the front to allow view of the forming rivet.(arrow) It uses this piece of box steel I picked at the scrap yard, a 3/4" bolt with a 5/16" hole through it's axis, & hardened steel 5/16" pins.Įach pin has a little different cup cut in the end of them for various types of rivets, one with tape on it is to align the jig at the start of the process. You can use this with a hammer, air hammer or press with this jig. It is a good jig for builders just getting started because you can go slow as you want & see the rivet head form as you go. I have posted this jig on this forum a few times but I can't find it when I need it so I'll post it again. Here is a variety of a few rifles I've built: I don't have any close ups of the rivets themselves. So far I've done about 50 AK's using this tool. This it tap rapidly as I keep the rivet forming tool moving.įrom start to finish it takes me about five minutes to form a "perfect" rivet that matches the Russian formed other side head. I finish the head using a 6 ounce ball peen hammer. Once I seat the rivet in the rear trunnion,I use my two pound sledge hammer to form the rivet head into the rough shape I want. They do not have to be heated in order to make a nice round head. The rivets I use are of Russian make and are bimetallic. This plate holds the rivet in place and supports the factory formed rivet head in place. I also made a bucking-plate of steel plate that too had the same type of female hole. I Took my Dremel tool and made a female hole on one end that is the shape of the rivet head I wanted. It is a steel rod that is harder than the rivet. I've been building AK's for 20 years now.
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